Islamabad - The wonderful Nicholson Tower built in the colonial era at Margalla Pass in the memory of a former British commander is reflecting its glorious past and alarming future at the same time.
At around 30-minute drive on the Grand Trunk Road from Islamabad to Peshawar; one reaches the famous Margalla Pass, which in the history has witnessed a number of wars.
Travelling toward the west, a granite column is viewed on the left side built on a hill.
At the footsteps of the hill, there is a police picket now and the tower is surrounded by untrimmed trees, stone crushing industry and heavy transport workshops.
A magnificent construction of colonial age looks misfit in the populous and industrial site but its enormous size surely attracts every visitor passing by the area.
However, once the memorial of the British commander, which still has a strong appearance from outside is now home to rats, wasps and other insects. As per the history available, the tower was built in 1868 by the then British administrator in the area to honour Brigadier General John Nicholson.
The British commander fought four wars in the region and was wounded here during the first Anglo-Sikh war at 1845. Local myths also tell that he was rescued and treated by a local who was later awarded land in the area.
However, the current milieu in the surroundings of the tower tells another story that authorities have no interest in saving this ancient construction.
The entrance to the park of the tower is lost in the overgrown grass and weeds, while the bushes have covered the benches set for visitors. The information boards telling the history of Gandhara, Grand Trunk Road, and the tower have become faded and disappearing in the scrubs. To reach the tower, one has to walk 80 stairs in elevation which takes to the base of the tower.
The height of the tower is around 40 feet, including 10 feet from its base to the entrance. The view of quarried hills of Margalla around the tower gives the caution of future danger for the building.
To reach the entrance of the tower, 10 feet iron ladder is fixed. But, the entrance door locked with barbed wire and wooden stick depicts that not only tourists but the officials also don’t bother to visit this place. Stressing to eyes in the dusk, a plaque is seen mentioning the background of construction of this building.
“This column is erected by friends, British and native to the memory of Brigadier General John Nicholson, taking a hero’s part for the defence of British India, Cabul 1840, First Siekh War 1845, Second Seikh War 1848, Sepoy Mutiny 1857.”
However, wasps and rats have occupied the tower, and if a person will step inside it, filth and muck on the floor will welcome him. Possibly he would opt to return back instead of following his curiosity of reaching the top.
A local, Mohammad Azeem, who owns a tuck shop in a nearby market, said that it is rare that any tourist comes here. “Visitors or officials visit this tower in months and years,” he said.
Azeem also said that nearby people bring their animals for grazing in the park and when the sun sets this place becomes a suitable shelter for addicts.
rahul basharat