Fashion with minimalism approach

Acclaimed designer Adnan Pardesi launched his label in 2007. In a short span of time he has made an impact on the local market and created ripples in the fashion industry with his innovations. He has showcased his collection in many fashion weeks across Pakistan and in other countries as well. He last showcased his label’s bridal couture at Telenor Bridal Couture Week 2015 in Karachi. In an exclusive interview with Sunday Plus he shared his views about the fashion industry and his own label. Following are excerpts of the interview:

Being a graduate of the Asian Institute of Fashion Design, who were your mentors at the start of your career? Who is your muse now?

My mentors at the start of my career were definitely my Head of Department ShaziaViqar, Maheen Khan, RizwanBeyg and Rizwan-Ul-Haq. My muse now is my best friend and a very talented writer and the very gorgeous Aania Shah. She is the absolute description of the woman I design for gorgeous, talented, go getter and fashionistas.

What is your design philosophy?

I believe in minimalism and employing structure and architecture as the inspiration for my design.

Can you define couture? A lot of clothing in Pakistan is being sold as couture. What are your views? And do you believe in the new concept of luxury prêt?

Well couture is possibly the most abused and used word in Pakistan. Couture is basically hand crafted with a lot of finesse and details and an impeccable finish which majority don't do and claim to be couturiers. There are very few people here who understand this and are able to achieve this. People consider bridals as couture in Pakistan which is completely a different segment. I think it's a new concept and people are still trying to understand this concept. It's definitely the segment for high-end designer wear.

What makes Adnan Pardesy outfit unique? What steps do you take to ensure its uniqueness?

 I think what makes an Adnan Pardesy outfit unique is the attention to detail we ensure into the garment. The finish, the design, the tailoring and even the craftsmanship, everything we make definitely has a signature which is extremely important for us. We also feel that our approach to design is very original which is what we take a lot of pride in.

You have participated in many fashion weeks. How do you prepare for a fashion week?

It's a simple process. Look for an inspiration, research, sketch , sketch and sketch, do sampling, have lots of caffine, nicotine, chocolates, lots of late nights, lots of drama, stress and we are ready for the Fashion Week.

Fashion is all about business? How far do you agree? Does it not bind your creativity in some ways?

Well it is a business and everyone have their own way to stand out. When I started out I just wanted to give out statements and my approach was doing impractical fashion, which frankly worked. Now my approach is statement keeping in mind the importance of wearability and sell ability. I think it is important to channel your creativity to not only create designs that are creative but also wearable and relatable for your customer.

What are the prerequisites for becoming a successful fashion designer in Pakistan?

Well success is a term that needs to be defined. Initially I thought people knowing me and praising my work is being successful. Now I want people to praise my work and also wear my work and I make money in the process is also success possibly. One can't really define what it takes to be successful. What works for me might not work for someone else. But I think being focused, working hard and having a plan is possibly the key.

You are known for bridal wear, party wear, prêt as well as western wear. In which category you are most comfortable while making new designs?

Well at this stage where I am when I do collections I am at equal ease at making either. But frankly I love making jackets. If I could do that I would only be making jackets.

How would you explain the term fusion in fashion? How do you practically use it in the clothes that you design?

I think fusion is really confusion to be very honest. It's a term for cooking that people have started to use for fashion which is wrong to be honest. I think the word should be modern. It is let's taking the traditional shalwar Kameez and turning it into a modern version with certain elements which have traditionally not been used in our design or have been borrowed from somewhere else. So we do use different elements from let's say a dress and turn it into a Kameez with interesting pockets or collars or sleeve for an Asian woman.

How do you see the Pakistani fashion making headlines in the international markets? How do you see our growth? Are we going in the right direction?

Well frankly it's not making any international headlines at the moment. I think it is going in the right direction but we have a long way to go before our designers or brands become international. At this moment we have to become big in our own country and that would be an achievement.

Designer should move to create timeless elegance in his clothes. How is it possible with the ever changing trends?

Timeless elegance is something to do with designer’s aesthetics and their approach to fashion. There are designers who follow international trends and there are designers who design whatever they want and make it into a trend. So it all depends on who is the designer and who is it being made for.

What are your best contributions to the Pakistan fashion industry?

I am not sure of my contribution to fashion. I would like to believe that my denim collection 'OPINE' that I showed in 2011, which also earned me a ticket to show in Paris is possibly my best contribution to fashion so far. I don't think Denim was ever treated and worked upon that way before. This is something I am very proud of and I still get a lot of appreciation for it.

What is your favourite colour palette for bridal wear and for party wear? 

For bridals frankly I love pastels and ivory. That's my favourite colour palette. My favourite for party wear is always black, navy, deep maroon and deep purple. I love the dark color palette. Dark colours make you look thin and fabulous and suits every complexion.

Given a chance which era would you choose to make the perfect designs that you like?

I just love the 50's and 60's. It was an era where people used to dress up and looked fabulous. The hats, the dresses, the suits, the bags, the shoes, the accessories everything was amazing fashion wise. It was fashion over comfort which was wonderful.

Things that you would like to change about the Pakistan fashion industry...

Nothing really. It's full of bitchy, insecure, secure, nasty, lovely, geniune, fake, talented, non-talented, unfair people, which is wonderful. It's like this everywhere and that's why makes for a fun industry. Love it and it should remain this way. It's a ruthless business at the end of the day.

How do you strike a balance between your personal life and work? 

It's simple when it's time to work it's time to work. When it's time to party its time to party. It's no rocket science.

What is your fashion forecast for autumn and winter of 2015?

Fashion forecast well just wait for my show in October.I think fusion is really confusion to be very honest. It's a term for cooking that people have started to use for fashion which is wrong to be honest. I think the word should be modern.

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