As the hot summers recede and give way to autumn and winters, the mood and flavor of recreation changes. While life is nothing short of a struggle in plains with the heat and humidity of summer months, winters are very pleasant. Lahore has a colorful season of cultural and touristic activities in winter, most suitable time of the year to explore this treasure of a city and its surroundings. This year however, we waited fruitlessly long enough for winter and finally decided to move on without it.
Hiran Minar
Commemorative Plaque
We were horribly late that morning. The days were short and we had four hours of journey ahead of us. When the gang was finally put together, dragged out of their sleep or prior engagements, we decided to change our plans and visit somewhere nearer. Sheikhupura was the most viable option as it offered a treasure of history and wasn’t far at all from Lahore. Some estimates say that by the year 2050, this small city would be a suburb of greater Lahore. After driving for half an hour on motorway, we took the Hiran Minar exit. A little further on the bumpy road that follows, the impressive seventeenth century monument dating back to the time of Emperor Jahangir, can be seen standing amidst a thick jungle of acacia trees. Sheikhupura, which was called Jahangirpur in the Mughal era, was a royal hunting resort. It is difficult to imagine the way things were in those days. Subtracting the colonialism, population explosion and many fold increase in agriculture in the following centuries, a beautiful picture of a vast and fertile land emerges at the heart of which the great imperial city of Lahore was built surrounded by miles of exotic gardens. Beyond Dilkusha gardens where modern day Shahdra is situated, was the royal hunting resort stretching up to modern day Sheikhupura. Mughals had fine taste in life’s pleasures. Among other passions, hunting was a favorite sport of all great kings of the dynasty. Mughal hunting was a grand affair, preparations of which went on for months before the hunt started. On the decided day, Emperor would leave for the hunt with his lavish camp exhibiting great pomp and show. Game was gathered by the king’s men in the jungles of Jahangirpur and royal party engaged in the sport and other recreations for many days. The royal hunting pavilion and Hiran Minar, built in the middle of the vast hunting ground are a legacy of those days.
Bridge
Crown of the Monument. Top floor of the hunting pavilion
Hiran Minar is a high cylindrical structure built symmetrically opposite to the royal hunting pavilion. As the legend goes, Jahangir was very fond of a pet deer named Mansraj. He was heartbroken when the deer was killed of an arrow and ordered that a monument be built upon its grave, hence the Hiran Minar. The hunting pavilion on the other side is an impressive three storey octagonal structure standing in the middle of a huge water tank. It is accessible by a beautifully arched bridge. There is a central chamber on the ground floor, surrounded by several ante chambers. Two narrow staircases lead to the first floor which offers an excellent view of the pond and a vast area surrounding the complex, through its arched corridors. A solitary chamber in the center must have been the King’s sitting place. I could almost imagine Jahangir seated in there, a golden cup of wine in his hand and smiling at Noor Jahan who was standing in the arch with a bow and an arrow in her hands and aiming at some beast she had spotted in the jungle. The second floor is mostly open roof except an exotic canopy in the middle which gives the building its crown and offers a magnificent view of the area. Only ground floor of the pavilion is open for the public. How we got to see the upper floors was sheer luck. We asked the care taker if locks could be opened for us in exchange of some money, the way it usually happens at historical monuments. He said the most absurd thing, that the locks could only be opened if we got a written permission from Lahore Fort. When we were leaving the premises, the same man called us back and said that locks are being opened for some high ranking officials, you tag along with them. So we did, fortunately.
Story of the day does not end here. Boat ride in the water tank was another beautiful experience at Hiran Minar. We took a rowing boat which gently made its way in the water offering a magical “thousand and one nights” view of the arches of the bridge, the mighty pavilion and their shadows falling in the water. On my request, the boatman took the boat into one of the staircases descending into water and finally I realized that this resort was built with something more than wealth and craftsmanship. It was conceptualized by a dreamer and must’ve unfolded exotic days and magical nights for the visiting hunting parties.
Hiran Minar from the first floor of Hunting Pavilion
Hunting Pavilion
Like all other historical monuments in Pakistan, Hiran Minar complex suffers from erosion and neglect. It is a nationally recognized monument and can be restored to its former glory with very little effort. By improving the condition of road leading to the complex from motorway, laying Mughal style gardens in the surrounding open area and provision of basic facilities, this historic treasure can be changed into a place worthy of its rich past.