THATTA - What could have been a great tourist attraction in Pakistan, the historic Makli graveyard, one of the largest necropolises in the world, is presenting a picture of utter neglect with its crumbling structures staring in the face.
Located on the outskirts of Thatta which remained the capital of Sindh until the seventeenth century, it is the burial place of some 125,000 local rulers, Sufi saints, queens, scholars and philosophers.
While some tombs are still intact in their original shape and grandeur, many are in dilapidated condition, speaking volumes of the negligence of the department concerned.
Many graves at this heritage site, which served as the material documents marking the social and political history of Sindh, have been wiped out of the surface of earth. Accounts from the locals suggest that the pilferage of previous stones from the graves still continues unabated.
Though this historic site is protected under the Antiquities Act and is also on the world heritage list, no watch and guard system has been put in place to prevent stealing of stones and slabs by the people who sell them in the market at high prices to make fortunes. The Shirazes and Palijos, who rule this part of Sindh, seem to have no regard for this precious asset of the country.  
As the graveyard has a diameter of approximately eight kilometres, there are no visible markings showing boundaries of its protected area. A boundary wall does exist at some points but anybody can enter the site from any direction with great ease. Excavations from different sides are also visible.
Many royal mausoleums, some of which as old as 12th century, have lost their grandeur due to the lack of proper upkeep. They are said to have been built using local sandstone and plastered bricks.
The architecture of tombs at Makli represents four historical periods namely the Samma, theArghun, the Tarkhan and the Mughals.
The tomb King Jam Nizamuddin II (1461–1508) and Isa Khan Hussain II (1651) are the square structures built of sandstone and decorated with floral and geometric medallions.
Decorated with glazed tiles, the mausoleums of Mirza Jani, Mirza Ghazi Baig, Nawab Shurfa Khan, Mirza Baqi Baig and Mirza Jan Baba are some other impressive structures in the graveyard with some at an advanced state of decay.  
If, on the one hand, the beauty of Makli is threatened by the decay caused by the local climatic conditions, encroachments and pilferage of precious tiles remain another grave danger to its existence. The salty air carried by the monsoons has a corrosive effect on the bricks.
The majestic Shah Jahani Mosque at Thatta is another historic site which needs to be preserved and protected. Built in 1647 with red bricks and blue coloured glaze tiles during the reign of Mughal King Shah Jahan, it is also on the world’s heritage list. Though it stands in its compact form with its 99 domes, signs of neglect and decay have started appearing here as well. A small portion of it was seen without tiles which seem to have been stolen.
The dilapidated road leading to the mosque from the main highway makes it difficult even for the pedestrians to get there. Giving a mysterious touch to the mosque structure, a local said that a person speaking at one end of the dome can be heard from the other end when the speech exceeds 100 decibels.
After the 18th Amendment in the Constitution, Sindh Government has been entrusted with full administrative and financial authority over all heritage sites in the province with its culture department being responsible for the management and protection of this ancient site.