French climber saved on ‘killer mountain’ in dramatic rescue

ISLAMABAD - An elite group of climbers saved a French mountaineer in a daring night-time rescue on a Pakistan peak nicknamed “killer mountain”, but officials Sunday called off the search for a second missing climber.

The team of Polish climbers with support from the Pakistani military launched the attempt Saturday afternoon to rescue stranded French mountaineer Elisabeth Revol, but were unable to reach Polish national Tomek (Tomasz) Mackiewicz on Nanga Parbat.

Military helicopters buzzing over Nanga Parbat had spotted Revol at about 6,700 metres during daylight on Saturday, a Pakistani official said.

Russian climber Denis Urubko, who has dual Polish citizenship, together with Polish climbers Adam Bielecki, Jaroslaw Botor and Piotrek Tomala were then dropped off by the helicopters at about 4,900 metres, from where the first two began their ascent.

“The rescue for Tomasz is unfortunately not possible - because of the weather and altitude it would put the life of rescuers in extreme danger,” wrote Ludovic Giambiasi, a friend of Revol, in a series of updates on Facebook. “It’s a terrible and painful decision ... All our thoughts go out to Tomek’s family and friends. We are crying.”.”

The four rescuers were flown by the Pakistani military from the base camp of K2 - the world’s second-highest peak - to reach the stranded climbers.

They were part of a Polish expedition seeking to become the first mountaineers to summit K2’s peak during the winter, when good climbing days are rare.

“The K2 climbers who stopped their historic effort for a winter K2 summit will descend with Elisabeth Revol - one life saved,” said Karar Haideri, spokesman for the Alpine Club of Pakistan, in a statement on Sunday.

The team was evacuated by helicopter after a five-and-a-half-hour descent down the mountain to Nanga Parbat’s Camp One early Sunday. The group were then airlifted by helicopter to a hospital in nearby Skardu, where Revol was set to be treated for a number of injuries.

“(Revol) has frostbite and some (snow) blindness,” said Asghar Ali Porik from Jasmine Tours, who helped organise the K2 expedition.

Revol was later flown to Islamabad and admitted to hospital. “Elisabeth is in the hospital in Islamabad. She has severe frostbite on her hands and feet,” Giambiasi said. Television footages showed Revol walking into hospital.

Pakistani climber Karim Shah, who was in contact with the expedition, said the rescue effort was unmatched in the climbing world, with the team ascending 1,200 metres in complete darkness along a treacherous route without a fixed rope.

“No one did such a climb before,” Shah told AFP. “Most people, it takes two or three days, and they did it in eight hours in the darkness.”

Following the operation the Polish team are set to return to K2 base camp where they will continue their summit attempt. “This operation hasn’t affected the K2 (expedition),” Michal Leksinski, a spokesman for the team, told AFP. “This will go into the history of mountaineering. It was one of the greatest rescue attempts in history.”

The rescue mission was launched after the missing alpinists were located Friday by fellow mountaineers using binoculars, who spotted Revol attempting to climb down while Mackiewicz appeared to be crawling due to frostbite.

The pair ran into trouble after making a late descent to a camp Thursday. They were trapped on the side of the mountain for the night without a tent, battered by frigid temperatures and high winds, said Shah.

Masha Gordon, coordinator of a crowdfunding campaign to finance the rescue, was thrilled that Revol had been found. “We are crying from happiness,” Gordon posted on the GoFundMe rescue page, which showed nearly $100,000 had been raised by Sunday.

Pakistan rivals Nepal for the number of peaks over 7,000 metres (23,000 feet) and is considered a climbers’ paradise, but fatalities are also common.

Nanga Parbat, in northern Pakistan, is the world’s ninth-highest mountain at 8,125 metres (26,660 feet). It earned the nickname “killer mountain” after more than 30 climbers died trying to climb it before the first successful summit in 1953.

The mountain was first summited in the winter in February 2016 by Italian alpinst Simone Moro and his team - Alex Txikon of Spain and Pakistani climber Ali Sadpara - who overcame frostbite and pummelling winds to reach the peak.

In July last year a Spaniard and an Argentinian were presumed dead after they went missing while trying to summit Nanga Parbat.

In 2013, gunmen killed 10 foreign climbers and their Pakistani guide at the Nanga Parbat base camp.

 

ePaper - Nawaiwaqt