The Layla Chatoor luxury label is renowned for its signature focus on timeless elegance. Following the success of her international showcase at the London Fashion Parade, acclaimed fashion designer Layla Chatoor exhibited her designs at PFDC Delhi this March. She showcased various ensembles from her latest Bridal and Pret Collections. The designer has been in the industry for nearly two decades. Layla Chatoor is synonymous with high quality bridal wear, she now also designs luxury pret and occasion wear using rich, opulent fabrics such as tulle, lamé, silks and chiffons. Her forte lies in her unwavering attention to detail and meticulously researched motifs. She likes to experiment with structure and silhouettes often opting for a streamlined frame that balances the traditional with the contemporary. Layla also produces luxury accessories to complement her ensembles using the highest quality leather, fabrics and gemstones. In an interview with Sunday Plus she talked about her design philosophy and her life experiences. Following are the excerpts of the interview:

 

Layla Chatoor is well known brand. How did it all begin? Who or what inspired you to enter the fashion industry?

I was always interested in fashion, I have very sweet childhood memories of my grandmother being an excellent seamstress and she working with crochets, cross stiches and all sorts of embroideries with hand. Apart from this my father’s business was also in textile and I being raised up in Dubai was always surrounded by fashion. Hence it was quite natural for me to choose this field as a career.

What is your design philosophy? Does it change with time or you are very consistent in your approach to fashion?

I’m a big fan of things which are considered ancient/old and belong to the past times. As far as fashion is concerned, my design philosophy revolves around the fusion of old fabrics, laces, embroidery and crafmanship with modern cuts and looks that define a woman of future.

I will not say it changes over time but yes one has to infuse current trends into it. The basic philosophy remains the same but new trends and techniques are introduced from time to time.

On what thing do you concentrate the most when designing? What is the greatest challenge in designing?

I think it has to be originality and attention to detailing. The greatest challenge in designing is fusion of your brand’s signature style with the client’s requirements and the current fashion trends. The final outfit should represent your brand ethos, meet the client’s requirement and at the same time be in line with what is trendy in the industry.

Pakistani fashion has gone global for some years now. What are your views about the fashion industry’s growth?

It is absolutely thrilling to see how this industry has grown over the last decade. Back in the days when started, there were only few recognised names and people generally didn’t see fashion as an industry. But now with the increasing number of fashion shows and the limelight provided by our media, we are now witnessing a new era in the growth of this industry.

Recently you showcased your latest bridal and pret collections in Delhi. What was the response of Indian public?

It was extremely positive; we received a lot of orders for the work we showcased. Nothing is more pleasing to a designer than when people come up to you personally and appreciate your work.

How would you like to compare Pakistani fashion industry and Indian fashion industry? In what areas do you need to revamp our structures or bring in new trends for improvement?

I think as far as work/product is concern, both are unique in their own right and comparing the two would not be fair. Yes we have similar cultural background but clients on both sides of the border have their own preferences and each industry responds and moulds itself to the consumer demand. I think the only thing we could learn from our Indian counterparts is to further promote and revamp the infrastructure of the industry, end inter council wars and rise as a single council for the greater benefit of the industry and the people associated with it.

How do you see the business of fashion at the PFDC Delhi boutique?

By the grace of Almighty, we have been blessed with very brand loyal patrons on both sides of the border. Whenever I and Mansoor visit India, we are truly humbled by the hospitability and support we get from our Indian friends and business associates. As far as business is concern, we have been doing very well since the beginning, even before the launch of Layla Chatoor, we were amongst the few brands that actually took the initiative of taking our business across the borders. Our other fashion label Threads & Motifz we have been stocking in India since the early 90’s. The brand Layla Chatoor and many other leading names of the Pakistani Fashion Industry have always being received very well at PFDC Delhi. Quite recently, we did an exhibition plus an exclusive fashion presentation at PFDC Delhi.

Your earliest childhood memories about fashion...

As I mentioned earlier also, I have very sweet childhood memories of my grandmother being an excellent seamstress and she working with crochets, cross stiches and all sorts of embroideries with hand.

What is the forte of your brand?

I believe my brand’s forte is creating and fusion of different eras of fashion together. I enjoy the act of mixing up modern cuts with ancient fabrics, laces and embroidery techniques.

What edge do you think your brand has over other brands?

I think it has to be that we use very old techniques for embroidery and stitching, methods that have been long forgotten by other brands. We use as less digital printing as possible. We are old school and that’s our unique selling preposition as well.

It is said that you designed your own wedding dress. What was the inspiration for this act?

J It was more out of desperation than inspiration. I remember as a young girl I was very particular about what I wanted to wear in daily life and I took a lot of time in choosing my wardrobe. Wedding being the most special day in any girl’s life had to be perfect in all aspects and the bride’s wardrobe is a big part of the any wedding. I remember I searched for my perfect outfit but couldn’t find one in the market and was afraid that no couturier would understand what I really wanted for my wedding. I took the decision of taking on this appealing task myself and hence began my journey as a couturier.

 

 

Among the senior fashion designers who have been your favourites? Have you ever recommended some other designer’s dress to a friend?

I’m a big fan of Bunto Apa’s [Bunto Kazmi] and Maheen Khan’s work.

Yes, I can’t mention which names I recommend to people but if I feel I can’t provide what a particular client requires then I feel no hesitation in recommending other names as well. Over the years this is further strengthen the trust of my clients in me.

Which international designers are your favourites? 

I like Valentino, D& G, Lanvin and Christian Dior.

Anything that you would like to change about our fashion industry?

I think it’s high time that we end this inter council competition and work together to promote the fashion industry of Pakistan.

Do you believe in luck for success? What is the secret of your success?

Yes, luck does have its part but I strongly believe that you also need to work hard to succeed especially in an industry which has become so competitive lately.

I would say my secret of success has been the fact that my clients trust me not only as a business professional but as a friend as well, someone who will give them sincere advise when it comes to fashion.

Some clients can be difficult to satisfy? Are you flexible in your dealings or sometimes find it difficult to compromise on your views?

I strongly believe that no client is difficult if you understand what they require. Saying this sometimes you have to step back with certain people. It’s all part of the business but I try my best to give the sincerest advice to the current and prospect clients.

How do you take criticism?

I always try to take criticism with grace and appreciation. Over the years I have learned to take the positives out of any critique. I believe if your mind-set is positive, criticism helps you improve and grow more as professional.

Can you explain your thought process for the themes that you come up with for your collections? In simple words what inspires you to come up with new themes?

I get inspired from everything or anything. Mostly its nature, travel and life experiences. My last collection’s inspiration was a fusion of a place I visited, the scenery I saw from my living space’s window and my favourite song

 

What is your ultimate goal in fashion industry? Would you like to give details of your expansion plans?

My ultimate goal in fashion is now to take my brand beyond borders. I already have a sizeable clientele here in Pakistan now I feel its time pursue international audiences. I have been experimenting with exhibitions and fashion shows abroad lately and MashAllah the response has been very positive and encouraging.

I can’t mention much about my expansion plans because it’s still in the air but I can say im looking more at expanding my retail network. Particularly we are in talks with online fashion portals and multi designer stores both in Pakistan and abroad.

Would you like to share about real life challenges in your life besides the fashion business?

I just like any other person have face many challenges J . I think this space will not be enough to mention them all.

How do you see the increase in the number of fashion weeks and other fashion events across Pakistan? A large number of young designers have come on the scene. Do you think we may be heading for saturation in the fashion industry?  

I strongly believe that if your design sensibility is unique, there will always be market for your product.

It has been alleged that some young designers copy the work of international designers? How can this practice be checked?

J Not just young designers. I think its hard put invigilation to fashion. I suppose the only thing you can do is mentor young people to focus on originality and making their own distinct style stand out in the industry. Also, I feel fashion media nowadays is quick to spot these practices.

Where do you see the fashion industry heading? Do we have potential to capture markets in other countries?

Fashion in Pakistan has seen tremendous growth in the past few years and it can only go higher from here. Yes it has the potential to capture international market, especially after one sees Dior making ensembles similar to our shalwar kameezes and Paul Smith making Peshawari chappals etc. It shows that our fashion sensibilities have the potential to appeal to the international audience.

Most of the clients abroad are expatriates from Pakistan and India? Do you think we will one day be able to design for natives of other countries?

That is true, but quite recently I have also designed for some western brides. The volume may not be that much but I foresee a budding interest towards the Indo Pak culture in the western world. It all comes down to the general image and culture being portrayed abroad.

 

Tell us a little about your personal life and style.

My family is the centre of life. My personal style is very simple and elegant. I don’t over dress at all in daily time. On a typical day, I would wear a comfortable kurta with a pair of jeans.

While designing you are more comfortable with pret or couture?

I enjoy designing luxury pret but bridal couture is something which is and always will be my forte.

You have been in the fashion industry for nearly two decades. How do you see the journey? What are the projects that you have in pipeline?

It has been a roller coaster ride to be perfectly honest. Right from the mid 1990’s we have witnessed first-hand all the ups and downs of this fantastic industry, changes in each era of different governments, the inception of fashion councils in Pakistan et al. My own journey has been truly inspirational from the day I decided to make own wedding outfit to today when women trust and come to me for advise of what they should wear, the feeling is truly out of this world.

I’m working on a number of projects, mainly completing orders from our recent two exhibitions at London and Delhi. We have also started work on our new bridal collection for 2014.

Would you like to share with us fashion forecast for year 2014. What’s hot this summer and what should we look forward to in fall and winter?

For every day wear, since we have such unforgiving summers in Pakistan, I would advise all women to go for Whites and Pastel Shades like Mint, Lilac and Baby Blue. Also, for summers I would recommend sleeker cuts; my favorite chikankari. Apart from them I like sleeker long Kameez and izaars, they are timeless and should continue.

As far as winter in concern, I see a lot the basic silhouette being more volumetric and flowy. Also, I foresee the use of satin, brushed silk, lace, charmeuse, cashmere, jacquard and colored leather more into ensembles.

Any advice for young designers

There is no replacement for hard work and a creative mind. Good academic background is icing on the cake but should never stop you from working hard. Don’t let anything cage your imagination. When you design think big, think out of the box and think original. There is a very thin line between inspirations and copying someone so do your research as it help you create an original piece of art.