Short while ago, there was a remarkable symposium, “From Gandhara to the World”, organized by Imran Siddiqui, AS-EAP at MOFA. One hopes that the FM will make this a yearly event as a part of the job description for the AS position so that a system, not personal initiative drives it forward, but I digress from the subject. This symposium brought together many international delegates who were invited to attend, present, and discuss the way forward. I was asked to present a roadmap to promote pilgrimages to Gandhara; upon implementation, it would create a mega-sector worth USD 20-30 billion per year and entice 5 million Buddhist pilgrims to visit Pakistan, albeit over ten years. To create this mega-sector, many steps will need to be taken which will be the subject of other articles, however, a crucial step is for Pakistan’s government to put together systems to manage the visitors, not operate under localized bureaucratic fiefdoms. Following is a case in point.

A few days prior to the MOFA event, an esteemed Japanese monk reached out and asked “Son, I have been on a pilgrimage of Gandhara and have heard about this event. Can I please attend?” The MOFA host agreed and an invitation was extended. It turned out that the monk was then in Swat, having visited sites in GB and Hunza. It was remarkable that although he is a senior monk with monasteries in Ukraine, Russia, and other countries, for weeks he had been traveling alone in Pakistan in local transport. Concurrently, he is a fluent Urdu speaker. Upon receiving an invitation, he took a bus from Swat and I was fortunate to become his host. The event went famously and the monk was truly impressed by Pakistan’s positive shift in awareness towards Gandhara in the 20 years since he last visited.

Post the symposium, he wanted to visit the sites of Taxila and Bhamala (Haripur, KPK). I offered to take him to Taxila and a friend, a former Cabinet member who resides in Taxila, offered to show him Bhamala. On the assigned day, we went to the Taxila museum. The monk had been there decades ago and was impressed by the improvements at the museum. For myself, it was heartening to note that there were groups of Korean and Malaysian tourists who were also visiting. The groups were awed at seeing the monk visiting and chanting in the museum. For me, who has been working to promote Gandhara in the world, the scene was uplifting to see monks and tourists interacting in this historic Buddhist land. However, soon thereafter, the other sides of Pakistan showed up which gives Pakistan a negative image.

We drove towards Bhamala and were stopped at the Punjab-KPK border. The police manning the check post stopped us and asked for a “No Objection Certificate” for a foreigner to travel to KPK. We advised him that no such instructions were issued when he got the visa or subsequently. Furthermore, he had been traveling for days all over the GB and KPK, and in public transport no less, and he hadn’t been asked for a NOC. The response was “aab pakra gea hai” (now we caught him). It was further added that they didn’t care who said (MOFA ostensibly) that NOC is not required and only the DPO (District Police Officer) or district administration can dictate who can come or go. We were told to turn around and “bhag jao” (get lost). To somehow make us feel better, it was added that they were going to send back two other tour groups that were also en route. More than the directions of the police, it was the discourtesy, rudeness, and unprofessionalism that was disheartening to the visitor, who comes from a nation of perhaps the most courteous people. Story didn’t end there though since we circled around and went to our host’s home nonetheless through another road. While there, we called up the higher echelons of the administration who advised us to go to Bhamala and to call them in case of a problem. It is who you know in Pakistan after all.

So, as the title suggests, was there a security problem? Or, is it each functionary flexing his own muscles citing “security concerns”? If there was in fact security concern, why were we allowed to go ahead? Why weren’t instructions issued and SOPs put in place for tourists so they were aware and plan accordingly? And most importantly, why can’t we train our law enforcement officials to be professional and courteous? Tough messages need to be conveyed at times, but it is the delivery of the message and the demeanor of the messenger that the visitors take away with them. Finally, when will we as a nation become system-run, rather than operating under localized bureaucratic fiefdoms, to be allowed in or out of their domains?

If we want Pakistan to prosper and be a leader in the world, let us make it a welcoming place by training the gate keepers to Pakistan; visa officers, immigration, customs, police, and other security agencies, in hospitality and professionalism. We shouldn’t promote Pakistan without focusing on this, otherwise Pakistan might get a ton of one-time visitors, but that will be that.

Imran Shauket
The writer is a former Senior Advisor to the Government and a sector development specialist. He is also a promoter of Pakistan and its Buddhist heritage.